Bullet Pulling neck tension question

joevh

Hammer Time Executive member
I have a considerable amount of ammo that I loaded before discovering Hammers, in several calibers. Due to cost and scarcity of powder and primers, I would like to pull a lot of these bullets and load with Hammers. I have a RCBS collet bullet puller. Am I going to have a lack of neck tension issue after pulling them, unless I resize the necks? If so, is there any way I can resize the necks without de-priming them? LR primers are the most scarce things I have and I really don't want to waste them. I have RCBS full length resizing dies as well as Lee Neck sizing dies, but I think they will all require the de-priming pin to be in place to work properly, won't they?
 
You can remove the deprime pin. Thats what i would do if I pull bullets i would resize the neck. You dont need to cam over if you dont want to resize the case (shoulder).
But check your case length after resizing the neck.
 
Just use the neck die after pulling bullet and dumping powder. I don’t know anything about the Lee, but if you have an RCBS neck die in the set, pull the decap pin.
 
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Hey all. I know I’m new here and haven’t introduced myself yet. I will. I just wanted to give my thoughts on this post that I just saw this morning. I hope that’s ok and not breaking protocol.

Number one, you don’t need to resize them. It’ll be just fine without resizing it again, and you also won’t increase work hardening to the brass. There’s even a good video out there showing how it made no difference on not sizing after pulling bullets. Here is is:


My experience reflects his.


Number two, if you size without the expander installed, or without running a mandrel through the necks afterwards, you will end up with WAY too much tension now since the body of the die will undersize the necks without the expander. So if you do resize them, you’ll need to use a mandrel afterwards to get the necks to proper size, or if your RCBS dies allow you to only remove the decapping pin, only remove that part.

And a Lee neck die doesn’t have an expander nor does it have the ability to remove the decapping pin without making it permanent. It won’t work either if you just remove the stem because that’s what it forms the necks around to side them.

My advice is just pull the bullets, dump the powder, and start over with good primed brass, as is.

Good luck,

Todd
 
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Hey all. I know I’m new here and haven’t introduced myself yet. I will. I just wanted to give my thoughts on this post that I just saw this morning. I hope that’s ok and not breaking protocol.

Number one, you don’t need to resize them. It’ll be just fine without resizing it again, and you also won’t increase work hardening to the brass. There’s even a good video out there showing how it made no difference on not sizing after pulling bullets. Here is is:


My experience reflects his.


Number two, if you size without the expander installed, or without running a mandrel through the necks afterwards, you will end up with WAY too much tension now since the body of the die will undersize the necks without the expander. So if you do resize them, you’ll need to use a mandrel afterwards to get the necks to proper size, or if your RCBS dies allow you to only remove the decapping pin, only remove that part.

And a Lee neck die doesn’t have an expander nor does it have the ability to remove the decapping pin without making it permanent. It won’t work either if you just remove the stem because that’s what it forms the necks around to side them.

My advice is just pull the bullets, dump the powder, and start over with good primed brass, as is.

Good luck,

Todd
I know your new here so I’ll give you a pass this go around but you need to do some research on this forum on what works with Hammers as you are completely off of the reservation on this subject ,to the OP disregard this post
Absolutely no offense intended here.
As you were
 
I know your new here so I’ll give you a pass this go around but you need to do some research on this forum on what works with Hammers as you are completely off of the reservation on this subject ,to the OP disregard this post
Absolutely no offense intended here.
As you were
My apologies. I was just trying to help. I’ll do some more research. I was unaware of these sort of differences.
 
My apologies. I was just trying to help. I’ll do some more research. I was unaware of these sort of differences.
Most here accept that Hammers prefer more neck tension. Many run .003 or .004. Also, the bullets themselves are hard enough that they essentially work as a mandrel. A good chamfer should get them started fine. Just a little of what I’m learning.
 
Most here accept that Hammers prefer more neck tension. Many run .003 or .004. Also, the bullets themselves are hard enough that they essentially work as a mandrel. A good chamfer should get them started fine. Just a little of what I’m learning.
Copy that. Most full length sizing dies leave around .004” of undersize or more. Just watch for any previous crimps since without an expander or using a mandrel it won’t remove the crimp completely. I’ve buckled a few cases doing that when seating a new bullet.
 
My apologies. I was just trying to help. I’ll do some more research. I was unaware of these sort of differences.
He's a few good one to help out on the reading that gives you a good bit of information.
This will get you started.
 
He's a few good one to help out on the reading that gives you a good bit of information.
This will get you started.
Thanks! Working on a honey-do project at the moment, but I’ll read up on those later when I get more time.
 
Dang homie, around here .003-004 is ideal neck tension/interference fit. With a crimp added in for good measure! 🤣
I meant to remove that crimp before seating another bullet. I’ve seen that crimping has been recommended with Hammers which is why I mentioned it.

I used to do all my ammo with .003-.004” tension and I even crimped most things. I got away from it though and haven’t looked back. I’ve seen nothing but improvements in my ammo as a result of my current ways.

I understand you guys are saying Hammers are different. I’ll be honest, I’m not excited about going backwards. Hopefully it’s just something that has worked for some of you and isn’t actually a requirement.

Either way I appreciate the feedback and help. I’ll be keeping all this in mind. At least I can say you were right if it comes to that.

Todd
 
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Well Sir, I don't think it's really going backwards if it improves your groups. It took me 4 years to get my head around changing the way I had learned to develop loads over the previous 50 years, most especially but not limitedto my heavy for calibre bullet choices. To say Hammers perform differently is a gross understatement. I believe you will find it worth your while though.

Regards
 
Yeah, if it improves groups and is necessary I get it’s worth it. But why is it necessary? What makes them so different? I’ve shot other turned copper bullets with drive bands without needing the extra tension and crimp.

What do you all suppose the extra tension and crimp is doing and specifically with Hammers? 🧐🤔.

I’m not trying to argue. Im actually curious.

Thanks,

Todd
 
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