New rifle, first round set up

1

19dsniper

Active member
I just got in my Howa super lite in 6.5 needmore. Let the flaming begin. Lol

I checked and re-torqued scope base, rings, etc. Mounted a Vortex Razor LHT 3-15.
Cleaned bore with Boretec carbon remover and then Cu2 copper remover.
Then 2 oiled patches and 4 dry patches.

Loaded up a ladder with 125 HHT starting with 38.5 varget in 0.5 gr. Increments up to 41.0 grains.

Loaded up a ladder with 125 HHT starting with 41.0 of H4350 to 43.5 grains in 0.5 grain increments.

These are 1 round each to test for pressure and velocity. Currently running 0.002 neck tension (its all I have till my lee crimp die gets here) COAL set at 2.680"

I have 2 rounds loaded up at 39.0 grains as foulers/ sighters to get me close to zero before I start the work up.

What am I missing other than heading to the range? I've been reloading for 20+ years, but everything I've read keeps saying that we need to re-learn how to reload with the hammers.

My plan was to go shoot these test ladders tomorrow. Total of 13 rounds for 2 powders.
Log velocity while watching for pressure.
Find pressure, back off half a grain, then load a few more at that charge weight and test for accuracy and try to dial it in with the crimp die that should be here tomorrow night.

Am I going about this the right way?

Any advice is more than welcome. A little teasing is fine too. I feel like a noob all the sudden. Haha

I have read thru the reloading stuff and also the load data. That's where this info is basically coming from, it's just different than my normal loading procedure and I wanted to double check if im missing a step or should try something else, or different.
 
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Check every screw on the rifle, not just the scope base. I was working with an 11B a couple years ago to get his first bolt action sighted in. No matter what I tried, we just couldn't get that "high quality" factory rifle to group. When all else failed and I decided to take the rifle apart and put it back together, the action screws were less than finger tight. Put it back together with proper torque and that rifle stacked bullets one on top of the other....
 
Richcotte said:
Check every screw on the rifle, not just the scope base. I was working with an 11B a couple years ago to get his first bolt action sighted in. No matter what I tried, we just couldn't get that "high quality" factory rifle to group. When all else failed and I decided to take the rifle apart and put it back together, the action screws were less than finger tight. Put it back together with proper torque and that rifle stacked bullets one on top of the other....
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Good point and I did check them. I didn't post any data on what its torqued to as there is conflicting information on torque specs for the superlite stock. Some have reported cracking the bottom "metal"/ plastic trigger guard.

If anyone has any true Howa torque specs on the super lite stock, please let me know.

The correct rings just showed up. I ordered the Talley Howa superlite 30mm low rings as recommended by Howa.

I will get these on now and head to the range after my daughter's soccer skills day.

Thanks for the info and reassurance!
 
Oh, don't forget to have fun! I'm a strong believer in breaking in the barrel proper. There are a lot of methods. Remember heat is the enemy of your barrel. I highly recommend taking at least two other guns along to enjoy as your barrel cools on the new gun between rounds.
 
19dsniper said:
Am I going about this the right way?
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Yes, its what I do.
Except only 1 thing with a new scope; I would just go ahead and continue to zero the scope on the pressure ladder group as I shoot it, at 100yds all the 4 Hammer calibers Ive loaded for the pressure ladder grouped the same spot. So zeroing that saved me time when I found pressure, backed off and loaded 10 rounds to test velocity extreme spread and fine tune the zero thats already pretty much there. I haven't figured out why this phenomenon happens at the increasing velocities so I roll with it, some fine tuning of the tighter final group zero at most.

Ideally, after that second range visit your done and ready to hunt, though I usually go back a third time and shoot for drops out to 300yds (or whatever your need is). Or, load maybe 20rds and get all that done in the second range session.
 
I'll only add: Use some degreaser like Windex, K&N oil filter cleaner, Gun scrubber, in the bore. Patch it till it howls. You want no oils in that bore. If you have dry graphite work that through the bore on a patch. Your first shot POI will be balls on with the rest.
 
@19dsniper

One thing that hasn't been mentioned already is that even with good powders as you've chosen, backing off only 1/2 gn may not be quite enough if these are being shot in the heat of the summer.
Varget and h4350 are as good as your going to get for temp stability, but say .5fps per degree in velocity change.
Backing off 1/2 gr from pressure is about 25fps.
50 degree temp swing from load development would put you back on pressure.
I have noticed this here in CA. Like today in the high 30's. Typical deer season here could be 105 degrees.
I have dialed it back to 1gn from pressure from now on.
Just m2cw
 
19dsniper said:
Good point and I did check them. I didn't post any data on what its torqued to as there is conflicting information on torque specs for the superlite stock. Some have reported cracking the bottom "metal"/ plastic trigger guard.
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Similar issue with Tikka factory bottom metal. I replaced mine with an all metal aftermarket to avoid the issue and tighten up where I can on the plastic factory stock until I can get it moved over to composite.
 
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Well, I had planned on getting down to the range today, but on the way I found out that the horse had other plans. She had broke 1 T-post and snapped 2 cedar posts and pulled part of the fence down. So I spent the next 5 hours digging out the old posts and putting new ones in and running a new 30 foot section of fence.

I did however get my rings delivered today so I got the new Talleys installed.

Previously I was using Vortex Pro low rings on the factory installed scope base. I did not like this as even with the lowest rings, it provides more of a chin weld than a cheek weld.

I got the old one removed. Cleaned everything up with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip and then cleaned the screws with alcohol as well. I then placed a little blue loctite on the threads and installed the new one piece rings. Got the base torqued to 25 inch lbs and then installed and leveled the scope. I then attached the top of the rings and torqued them down to 15 inch lbs.

Everything is set up really nice now. I can shoulder the rifle with my eyes closed and when I open them, it's lined up perfectly!

I probably only saved an ounce or 2, but that wasn't the point in making the swap. Making it alot more comfortable was what was important.

In replacing the scope rings and bringing the scope lower to the center of the bore, it actually feels alot lighter. I know it's not, but it effected the balance of the rifle enough to make it feel that way. It is no longer top heavy like it was before.

I will make it to the range in the morning and get some shooting in. I'm lucky enough to have a 300 yard shooting range here on the property, so I don't need to go anywhere special. Hopefully the animals will stay out of trouble long enough to let me get some shooting in. 20240106_115957.jpg20240106_120008.jpg20240106_120546.jpg20240106_122705.jpg20240106_123519.jpg


Bonus points to anyone who knows what type of boxes the rifle is sitting on. 😁
 

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