Learning pressure signs

We talk a lot about "knowing how to read pressure signs", but as I think about it, I dont recall ever seeing a tutorial on it. I just kind of figured it out over time. If others did the same, then I bet we have all learned some different ways that we can share with each other.
Each rifle is different on their tolerances and so pressure signs will likely show up different from one rifle to another, but I will share the way I interpret the signs from my experience with my loading.

This is a really important topic for this forum in particular since we are playing with bullets that have no load data and we all need to build up our own safe loads for our rifle and application.

I know some folks do some measurements of the base or ejector groove, but I usually just inspect the primer.
A low pressure load will have a firing pin dent that is rounded and the primer corners will have about the same rounded shape as they were when the primer was new.
A little higher pressure and I start to see a little ridge around the firing pin dent. Certainly how much of a ridge depends on the thickness of the primer cup (brand of primer) and the shape of the firing pin dome (make of rifle). I just rake my finger nail across the pin dent, and feel if there is a ridge there and estimate how tall. I have seen factory ammunition have a little ridge, and so I dont consider this to be so bad.... unless it starts to get pretty tall.

At higher pressures, I see the ridge around the firing pin dent get tall. Also the primer looks "flattened". Instead of the nice rounded corners on the edge of the primer, the primer now looks larger and the corners look sharper. It was only after taking pictures for this post that I realized what is really happening when that is observed. Its the primer cup trying to fill the chamfer on the case primer pocket.

Then add a bit more pressure and the seal between the primer and the primer pocket starts to fail. In this case the flattened primer kind of acts as a safety feature since the expanded corner helps to seal the gasses. You will see this when the spent primer is removed from the case, and you will find carbon residue on the side of the primer.
Then, if pressure is further increased you may actually get gas leakage. This will leave carbon on the case head and bolt face. You could even get a blown out primer. That said, I think this is more often a consequence of worn out primer pockets since in my most recent loads I got gas leak before I got sticky bolt. I later checked my brass with a no-go gauge and found some others that were too loose and discarded them.
Oh, and for those that dont know, "sticky bolt" is the phrase used that after firing the cartridge its hard to lift the bolt. This is because the case did not spring back enough to its smaller shape after expanding from the explosion and now is kind of stuck in the chamber and so its takes a bit of work to get it un-stuck.

Here are my pics which I hope help those that are learning.
I also welcome others input on pressure signs so that I can learn as well.
Low medium and high.jpg

Low and high.jpg
Over pressure.jpgRidge and no ridge.jpg
Low and high 2.jpg
High pin dent ridge.jpg
Flatened primer.jpg
Leaky and blow out primers.jpeg
 
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I was originally going to do the pics with primer still in, but I had already decapped my brass, so I dug through my primers looked at them carefully for the first time. If it was not for making this post, I too would have never looked at primers after removal and found the carbon deposits and side wall flaring. Note that it helps to have a good magnifier to see the primer flaring. They make little clip on macro adapters for cell phones that I used to carry with me to China for optics inspection. Its like having a pocket microscope. That would probably help out.
 
The primer analysis would be another indicator paired with observation for ejector smear marks. Tying the primer visual with whether or not you have ejector smear will be good data for pressure evaluation. The other kicker is how many loads on the brass. If you don't have 3X loads, the data may still be skewed a little bit for fireforming of the brass to its fullest extent for the chamber. Consistent Shoulder setback is another factor in reading pressure. And there are primer cup hardness differences between manufacturers. As well as slight diameter differences between primers. And sometimes overlooked is the brass trim length sufficient to prevent added neck pressure on bullet.

When you decapped the spent primers, could you feel any decapping force difference between the cratered primer from regular spent primer?
 
Months ago I loaded some 130SH for a bud and his boy for their 308s. Yesterday I got to shoot the kid’s gun—they thought it might be off zero…it wasn’t—and I inspected the brass & decapped primer to confirm I didn’t do anything dumb when I loaded for them.
The brass had the faintest smear on it, but the primer looked perfect. Absolutely zero signs of pressure.
Reminded me of how gas guns will have smear on the brass but primers look good also. (At least how it is with what is in my safe).
Which got me wondering…might ejector smear be more firearm/bolt dependent and not necessarily the best indication of pressure?
Genuine question, not pushing an agenda. Trying to get more smarter [sic]! 🤪
 
Reminded me of how gas guns will have smear on the brass but primers look good also. (At least how it is with what is in my safe).
Yes, common in all my gas guns. I don't back down charge till I get ejector gouge. Shiny spot ok, shiny shot with raised brass around it. Not okie dokie.
Which got me wondering…might ejector smear be more firearm/bolt dependent and not necessarily the best indication of pressure?
Yes, but I only get ejector dots on the brass in bolt guns since the bolt isn't rotating while the brass is still hot like a gasser.
Genuine question, not pushing an agenda. Trying to get more smarter [sic]! 🤪
Oh sure Alan, we all believe that...That you are trying to get smarter...🤣
 
@gltaylor Bolt guns hold the most special place in my heart, but I love all firearms.

@BFD I have seen what dumb can do…and I don’t want to get any closer to that than I already am. (Talking about life, not reloading or shooting. Let’s just say I can point to plenty of real life examples of Dunning-Kruger. And I am sure there will be more evidence/anecdotes in two weeks. Haha!)

More thoughts: when I was laddering the 120HH in the 7x57, one load got to 3400+ fps. Common sense says that was dumb, and the primer had flaring on the walls. But the brass looked fine.

Sharing all that because I am coming around to the idea that the decapped primer might be the safest method…and looking at brass might not tell the entire story.
 
@gltaylor Bolt guns hold the most special place in my heart, but I love all firearms.

@BFD I have seen what dumb can do…and I don’t want to get any closer to that than I already am. (Talking about life, not reloading or shooting. Let’s just say I can point to plenty of real life examples of Dunning-Kruger. And I am sure there will be more evidence/anecdotes in two weeks. Haha!)

More thoughts: when I was laddering the 120HH in the 7x57, one load got to 3400+ fps. Common sense says that was dumb, and the primer had flaring on the walls. But the brass looked fine.

Sharing all that because I am coming around to the idea that the decapped primer might be the safest method…and looking at brass might not tell the entire story.
Well, the rest of us never make mistakes, so we are all rooting for you!
You are right about the primer vs case head signs. I will default to primer read over the case head, as the case head signs can be burrs on the ejector/extractor. Also, some guns have firing pins that crater everything, so the decaped primer read is the best in my opinion.
 
So I'm pretty new at this but I don't see any issues with my primers but once I get up to a certain point I get little shiny marks on the head. No stiff bolt or jump in velocity. Is this too much pressure? The reason I ask is because I get very good groups with these and very low ES. .308 154gr HHT out of a suppressed 18" barrel at 2785 -2800 fps. Should I back it down??
 

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