Schmo
Hammer Time Executive member
I thought I would make a post here for the fun of it. This will be elementary info for many, but I know that I enjoy reading what others are doing, even if I already know the process. So hopefully you enjoy it too!
I’ll start by saying that this rifle build is being done as a secondary rifle. I have a very nice custom rifle that is my main hunting rifle, chambered in 7mm PRC. While I absolutely love that rifle, like most guys, I wanted another one too! Like many here, I fell in love with Tikka long before I had one. Even though I have a custom rifle that costs multiple times what a Tikka costs, I still wanted a Tikka. That’s why I’m doing this.
I found a T3X chambered in 30-06 being sold by a private individual on a hunting forum. It’s basically like new, supposedly about 60 rounds or less down the tube. It was the basic blued and black synthetic. It had the factory bottom plastic, as well as an aluminum bottom metal from High Desert Rifle Works. It came with one factory mag. All shipped my to FFL for $550.
I’m a 7mm fanboy, but I picked up the 06 because of the price and knowing I could and would rebarrel it. For now, it’s a low cost investment. I can customize it more later. I started searching for a factory take-off 7mm-08 barrel, wanting to use it for a heavy predator and back-up hunting rifle. I found a new stainless fluted takeoff barrel - just what I wanted.
I’m currently waiting on my action wrench to arrive. It’s supposed to come Thursday. Tikkas have a reputation for an insanely torqued barrel. I’ll tell you what I’ve used in the past and have had excellent results with. Use a Wheeler #1 outside action wrench. Wrapped a couple layers of electrical tape around the action by the mouth of the action. Clamp your wrench on the action were the barrel tenon is. Clamp your barrel in a barrel vise. You can put a toilet paper tube around your barrel before putting it in the vise to prevent scarring. Clamp it tight. Then whack the the end of the action wrench handle with a 3 or 4 lb hammer. It’ll pop loose without much drama. I’ve seen barrels scarred by a “gunsmith” who must have grabbed onto the flutes with a pair of vise grips and no padding. That is completely unnecessary.
Until I want to pay the $$$ for a carbon fiber stock, I’m running with the factory stock. I’ll make sure it’s free floated. I did do a custom paint job to make it a little more fun.
For the scope, my ultimate goal is a Nightforce NX8 set in UM Tikka rings. But for now, I’ll have to use a less expensive optic. My mounts are Talley one piece rings. I landed a Burris Signature HD 3-15X44 E3 from Natchez for $249! It’s a factory refurb. Normally these scopes run around $500. I wasn’t looking for Burris, and I’ve never had one. I found this one and did some research. Everyone says glass quality is above its price point. Reports are that the turrets track well and that they hold zero well. It should be just fine until I can afford the Nightforce.
Just got sample Hammers in the mail to see which Hammer I want to run. First I’m trying the 119 AH, and the 120 HH. I’ve got two powders on hand to try, and may order others of these don’t give the results that I believe it will be capable of.
If you’ve read this far, bless you! Hope I didn’t bore people to death. Just thought someone may like to read about it.
I’ll start by saying that this rifle build is being done as a secondary rifle. I have a very nice custom rifle that is my main hunting rifle, chambered in 7mm PRC. While I absolutely love that rifle, like most guys, I wanted another one too! Like many here, I fell in love with Tikka long before I had one. Even though I have a custom rifle that costs multiple times what a Tikka costs, I still wanted a Tikka. That’s why I’m doing this.
I found a T3X chambered in 30-06 being sold by a private individual on a hunting forum. It’s basically like new, supposedly about 60 rounds or less down the tube. It was the basic blued and black synthetic. It had the factory bottom plastic, as well as an aluminum bottom metal from High Desert Rifle Works. It came with one factory mag. All shipped my to FFL for $550.
I’m a 7mm fanboy, but I picked up the 06 because of the price and knowing I could and would rebarrel it. For now, it’s a low cost investment. I can customize it more later. I started searching for a factory take-off 7mm-08 barrel, wanting to use it for a heavy predator and back-up hunting rifle. I found a new stainless fluted takeoff barrel - just what I wanted.
I’m currently waiting on my action wrench to arrive. It’s supposed to come Thursday. Tikkas have a reputation for an insanely torqued barrel. I’ll tell you what I’ve used in the past and have had excellent results with. Use a Wheeler #1 outside action wrench. Wrapped a couple layers of electrical tape around the action by the mouth of the action. Clamp your wrench on the action were the barrel tenon is. Clamp your barrel in a barrel vise. You can put a toilet paper tube around your barrel before putting it in the vise to prevent scarring. Clamp it tight. Then whack the the end of the action wrench handle with a 3 or 4 lb hammer. It’ll pop loose without much drama. I’ve seen barrels scarred by a “gunsmith” who must have grabbed onto the flutes with a pair of vise grips and no padding. That is completely unnecessary.
Until I want to pay the $$$ for a carbon fiber stock, I’m running with the factory stock. I’ll make sure it’s free floated. I did do a custom paint job to make it a little more fun.
For the scope, my ultimate goal is a Nightforce NX8 set in UM Tikka rings. But for now, I’ll have to use a less expensive optic. My mounts are Talley one piece rings. I landed a Burris Signature HD 3-15X44 E3 from Natchez for $249! It’s a factory refurb. Normally these scopes run around $500. I wasn’t looking for Burris, and I’ve never had one. I found this one and did some research. Everyone says glass quality is above its price point. Reports are that the turrets track well and that they hold zero well. It should be just fine until I can afford the Nightforce.
Just got sample Hammers in the mail to see which Hammer I want to run. First I’m trying the 119 AH, and the 120 HH. I’ve got two powders on hand to try, and may order others of these don’t give the results that I believe it will be capable of.
If you’ve read this far, bless you! Hope I didn’t bore people to death. Just thought someone may like to read about it.
