@19dsniper ,
Sorry you're having so much trouble. This is all highly irregular?
Hopefully we're overlooking something simple?
Too many people have followed your general path with much more favorable and faster results?
Post # 42 - most people do not go above 1/2 crimp. Most also go up in 1/2 to 1 gr increments looking for pressure.
On the way up to pressure, it is not uncommon to shoot a 6-10 shot group that does not go over about 1.5 inches for the total group. Some do this well, some don't.
When looking for the best group, adjust powder to get to the best group you can find. Changing crimp (if you do this) is a final step for fine-tuning grouping. "Fine-tuning" means going from .80-1.0 groups to .5ish groups. Change crimp in 1/8 steps (my personal practice).
Post #46 - .002 neck tension should be fine. Most start at .002-.003. At about .004 you can start crushing necks/shoulders (my experience at least).
Post #50 - Hammers are not particularly sensitive to jump, but .200 is a bunch! Most start at .020 and go out from there. In my personal cartridges (several), jumps range from .010 to over .150. Jumps are usually predicated by magazine length. Get a loaded cartridge that feeds reliably and shoot it. Just be sure that you stay away from engaging or touching the lands. If that doesn't work, (rare) then play with seating depth (go further away/deeper into the case).
Post #55 - It is generally best to crimp in a PDR valley - not on a shoulder (if you can). Crimping on a shoulder opens up the possibility of inconsistent bullet seating and bullet movement. Post #62 looks very good.
Post #65 - Just me, but I don't adjust scope settings while shooting for pressure. Let the gun show you what it will shoot as the charge goes up. It may move some/it may not. If you keep changing the scope settings you can confuse yourself very quickly and thoroughly.
Post #88 - One of the first steps in developing a load is to find the Ogive to Base measurement for your barrel with the bullet you are testing. Data given in the load sheets is for general information only. You need to measure your throat in your barrel and determine where your bullet touches the lands. Go about .020 off of that (further away) to start testing. What worked in someone else's rifle may or may not work at all in your rifle! It may even be dangerous.
The only thing I didn't see is that you verified the twist rate of your barrel. It is not uncommon for a barrel to not quite be twisted as marked on the barrel. The 125HHTs require a 1-8" twist as you know.
Lastly, and I hope this is not the case, some barrels just don't like some bullets. I've shot Hammers in 8 rifles and about 18 calibers so far. So far I've found 2 that a particular barrel would not shoot. Period. Can't tell you why. The same barrels shot other weight Hammers superbly? Hope you weren't that unlucky on your first try.
Sorry you're having so much trouble. This is all highly irregular?
Hopefully we're overlooking something simple?
Too many people have followed your general path with much more favorable and faster results?
Post # 42 - most people do not go above 1/2 crimp. Most also go up in 1/2 to 1 gr increments looking for pressure.
On the way up to pressure, it is not uncommon to shoot a 6-10 shot group that does not go over about 1.5 inches for the total group. Some do this well, some don't.
When looking for the best group, adjust powder to get to the best group you can find. Changing crimp (if you do this) is a final step for fine-tuning grouping. "Fine-tuning" means going from .80-1.0 groups to .5ish groups. Change crimp in 1/8 steps (my personal practice).
Post #46 - .002 neck tension should be fine. Most start at .002-.003. At about .004 you can start crushing necks/shoulders (my experience at least).
Post #50 - Hammers are not particularly sensitive to jump, but .200 is a bunch! Most start at .020 and go out from there. In my personal cartridges (several), jumps range from .010 to over .150. Jumps are usually predicated by magazine length. Get a loaded cartridge that feeds reliably and shoot it. Just be sure that you stay away from engaging or touching the lands. If that doesn't work, (rare) then play with seating depth (go further away/deeper into the case).
Post #55 - It is generally best to crimp in a PDR valley - not on a shoulder (if you can). Crimping on a shoulder opens up the possibility of inconsistent bullet seating and bullet movement. Post #62 looks very good.
Post #65 - Just me, but I don't adjust scope settings while shooting for pressure. Let the gun show you what it will shoot as the charge goes up. It may move some/it may not. If you keep changing the scope settings you can confuse yourself very quickly and thoroughly.
Post #88 - One of the first steps in developing a load is to find the Ogive to Base measurement for your barrel with the bullet you are testing. Data given in the load sheets is for general information only. You need to measure your throat in your barrel and determine where your bullet touches the lands. Go about .020 off of that (further away) to start testing. What worked in someone else's rifle may or may not work at all in your rifle! It may even be dangerous.
The only thing I didn't see is that you verified the twist rate of your barrel. It is not uncommon for a barrel to not quite be twisted as marked on the barrel. The 125HHTs require a 1-8" twist as you know.
Lastly, and I hope this is not the case, some barrels just don't like some bullets. I've shot Hammers in 8 rifles and about 18 calibers so far. So far I've found 2 that a particular barrel would not shoot. Period. Can't tell you why. The same barrels shot other weight Hammers superbly? Hope you weren't that unlucky on your first try.
.
