Sizing Mandrels vs FL sizing die with expander ball??

Nicoli7153 said:
No don't use bushings. Loading hunting rounds but trying to get them as accurate as possible. Without getting too OCD
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So you are just gonna go with the diameter/NT it gives? As it was explained to me, the caliber size nitride mandrel is for bushing size use. The stainless steel numbered mandrels allow you to adjust the neck tension without bushings. Just want to make sure you understand the use.
 
BFD said:
So you are just gonna go with the diameter/NT it gives? As it was explained to me, the caliber size nitride mandrel is for bushing size use. The stainless steel numbered mandrels allow you to adjust the neck tension without bushings. Just want to make sure you understand the use.
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Musta missed that. I'll see if can return it for an exchange. Thanks for the info...... this mandrel stuff is all new to me.
 
Nicoli7153 said:
Musta missed that. I'll see if can return it for an exchange. Thanks for the info...... this mandrel stuff is all new to me.
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If you want a one and done mandrel (not a set to play with different sizing options) look at the Wilson Sizing Mandrels.


Wilson makes great reloading gear and when I was researching (I'm in the same boat, this is all new to me), a lot of folks really liked this option. It just limits your ability to play with different neck tensions. It is a one and done....but a lot of folks said it really works well. I like to tinker to I bought 5 sizes of the 21's century mandrels and die body.....but that is almost 3 times what the wilson would have cost me.
 
BFD said:
3 mandrels per caliber is what I do. Caliber size, one .001 under and one .002 under ought get you a target neck tension with majority of brass differences/spring backs you'll likely see.
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Curious to why you use a caliber size?

Also what do you measure inside diameter with, something like a Forster neck tension gauge or just the mandrels? Thanks
 
jrebel said:
Most calipers have inside diameter measurement prongs on the backside of the normal prongs.
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Those aren't accurate for measuring a case neck ID. The calipers have a flat surface, the neck has a curved surface.
 
Edd said:
Those aren't accurate for measuring a case neck ID. The calipers have a flat surface, the neck has a curved surface.
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That's how everyone is measuring in my research. How else are you measuring?
 
jrebel said:
That's how everyone is measuring in my research. How else are you measuring?
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Yup. Works fine. You can also check the outside pre & post bullet seat to confirm. I ran a lot over the mititoyo micrometer and the difference in measurement to just using calibrated calipers wasn’t enough to justify measuring with the mitityoyo. Unless people can shoot the difference of .0005” I certainly can’t and don’t obsess over it.
 
The most accurate way is with gauge pins. If you are careful you can measure neck OD and neck thickness.

Anyone that measures ID with calipers and then talks tenths is just fooling themselves.
 
Edd said:
The most accurate way is with gauge pins. If you are careful you can measure neck OD and neck thickness.

Anyone that measures ID with calipers and then talks tenths is just fooling themselves.
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If you measure inside diameter with calipers before and after using the expander mandrels, you should see the difference which will give you starting point. May not be exact...but for for the purposes of neck tension, it should be really close.
 
Edd said:
The most accurate way is with gauge pins. If you are careful you can measure neck OD and neck thickness.

Anyone that measures ID with calipers and then talks tenths is just fooling themselves.
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Tenths? Like, a tenth of an inch? 0.100”?
 
jrebel said:
If you measure inside diameter with calipers before and after using the expander mandrels, you should see the difference which will give you starting point. May not be exact...but for for the purposes of neck tension, it should be really close.
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That would tell you the amount of change but wouldn’t tell you the ID unless you knew what it was before you started.

Measuring the neck OD before and after bullet seating would be a better choice. If you haven’t neck turned, You would need to make sure you measured at the same points on the neck.
 
Edd said:
That would tell you the amount of change but wouldn’t tell you the ID unless you knew what it was before you started.

Measuring the neck OD before and after bullet seating would be a better choice. If you haven’t neck turned, You would need to make sure you measured at the same points on the neck.
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I hear what your saying and have always measured neck tension by measuring the outside diameter after sizing....then after the bullet is seated. I spin the round in the calipers and have never seen a change in position. I think brass is better these days than it was years ago and neck concentricity appears and thickness appears to be pretty good these days.

I'm not looking to be precise.....as much as I am looking to be be consistent. I think the expander mandrels will add consistency to my neck tension. Or at least that is what I am told (over the expander ball anyway).

I also anneal all my brass. Years ago, annealing was a point in my hobby, that made the biggest difference in my ES / SD's, consistency and overall groups. It is said, expander mandrels are in the same category......best juice for the squeeze, so to speak.

I'll be honest......All of my rifles hold 1MOA or better with my current reloading practice. As a hunter, I probably don't need to play with expander mandrels at all. My enjoyment of reloading and learning new tricks is the only reason I am looking at it in the first place.

I appreciate your input...and if I see improvements with the expander mandrels, I may have to order a pin set for true measurements..
 
jrebel said:
I hear what your saying and have always measured neck tension by measuring the outside diameter after sizing....then after the bullet is seated. I spin the round in the calipers and have never seen a change in position. I think brass is better these days than it was years ago and neck concentricity appears and thickness appears to be pretty good these days.

I'm not looking to be precise.....as much as I am looking to be be consistent. I think the expander mandrels will add consistency to my neck tension. Or at least that is what I am told (over the expander ball anyway).

I also anneal all my brass. Years ago, annealing was a point in my hobby, that made the biggest difference in my ES / SD's, consistency and overall groups. It is said, expander mandrels are in the same category......best juice for the squeeze, so to speak.

I'll be honest......All of my rifles hold 1MOA or better with my current reloading practice. As a hunter, I probably don't need to play with expander mandrels at all. My enjoyment of reloading and learning new tricks is the only reason I am looking at it in the first place.

I appreciate your input...and if I see improvements with the expander mandrels, I may have to order a pin set for true measurements..
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Ditto
 
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