To Crimp or Not to Crimp Hammer Bullets

Steve Davis

Administrator
Staff member
I wanted to start this thread because I get questions from new customers almost daily whether they have to crimp Hammer Bullets or not. My answer to them is that it is a method of loading or developing a load with Hammers but not required. I personally rarely crimp my loads and will do it if the rifle tells me it needs it. Needs it, meaning it gives me difficulty with ES or accuracy. Then I will try a crimp to see if this will settle it down. I am basically a lazy re-loader. If I don't have to add a step to the process, I'm not going to. When I tell prospective customers this I am usually met with a sigh of relief because they are under the impression that they have to crimp in order to shoot Hammers. My conclusion is they have found this information here on the forum, so I want to set the record straight that is not a required process to load Hammers. With that said, I have rarely seen a downside to crimping.

My personal method is to start with a standard 2 thou neck tension and work a load up to find pressure. Back off the pressure to where it is comfortable and usually we have a very nice load there and I am done. Very nice meaning solid sub moa with the velocity that I am looking for. Sometime we will increase the neck tension to 3-4 thou to settle a load down and sometimes add a crimp to do the same thing. Or sometimes tinker seating depth to get what we need. But it is rare that we have to do anything beyond the initial ladder with 2 thou tension.

I know that there is a good number of you that use the crimp to tune your loads and there is no denying the success that you all achieve. So I don't want any of you to think that crimping is not a good option, because it is. I just want it to be known that it is an option that folks should be aware of but not required in order to get great performance from Hammer Bullets. I know there is lots of info on crimping on the forum but I am going to go ahead and make this thread a sticky so that it stays to the front for people to see successful loading with and without crimping.
 
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I have a variety of loads, crimped and Un-crimped as Steve has stated. 7 Rem Mag. Has a crimped load. Shoots well.
.243 Un-crimped shoots consistently .75” down to .33” on occasion. 350 legend uncrimped shoots ragged holes. Alll dependent on the rifle.
 
So...
Crawling out from under a tractor today I seen this thread and thought about it quite a bit today. 🤔
I don't recall anyone saying that hammers where "required, must be, or you were obligated to crimp a hammer bullet"
I have read every post and thread from the inception of hammertime, old and new forums.

Now I may be wrong as I'm tired from all the hrs planting the fields.
But I'll throw a bone out here, if you can show a thread that states.

"That you must, you are obligated to, or required to crimp a hammer bullet."
Not asking if, but stated so..

For the first person to show this,
I'll buy you a box of hammer bullets of your choice.
Now I don't want to take anything away from Steve's thread, it's good.
Just looking for where it is stated..
Alan
 
Ok, my bad, I will retract my "must crimp" mantra comment but just that there has been a strong influence to crimp, I'm not going to search the subject but my impression was many recommend it starting out a new load, if I recall the concern was it can add pressure if adding a crimp when there wasn't to begin with so for a while I went with that by default. Lots of talk about crimping to tune loads anyways, enough to warrant Hammer giving some clarity that its "not required" anyways.
 
So...
Crawling out from under a tractor today I seen this thread and thought about it quite a bit today. 🤔
I don't recall anyone saying that hammers where "required, must be, or you were obligated to crimp a hammer bullet"
I have read every post and thread from the inception of hammertime, old and new forums.

Now I may be wrong as I'm tired from all the hrs planting the fields.
But I'll throw a bone out here, if you can show a thread that states.

"That you must, you are obligated to, or required to crimp a hammer bullet."
Not asking if, but stated so..

For the first person to show this,
I'll buy you a box of hammer bullets of your choice.
Now I don't want to take anything away from Steve's thread, it's good.
Just looking for where it is stated..
Alan
I will oblige you......"Hammers Bullets Must BE....and it is REQUIRED.... TO CRIMPED bullets!!"

I will take a box of .338 210gr HHT's with the blue tips!! 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Joking of course......I have a couple rifles that are not crimped. and they still shoot MOA or better. I do use crimping as a "fine tuner" if you will, in really refining my load.
 
Gday
jrebel wins the box for ultimate thinking ahead

Thanks man that was a classic 🤣🤣🤣

The only part I’ll pull Steve up on is he says he likes it simple
Steve do you need me to explain simple as I’ve short cut things since last time you saw me load & even easier these days 🤪😜😇

Yes hammers don’t need to be crimped but it’s one I mainly like to do as less to do overall with prep work & that’s considerable time & stuff I don’t need to purchase or replace to get consistent results

So ea to their own methods as many ways to skin a cat

Cheers
 
So...
Crawling out from under a tractor today I seen this thread and thought about it quite a bit today. 🤔
I don't recall anyone saying that hammers where "required, must be, or you were obligated to crimp a hammer bullet"
I have read every post and thread from the inception of hammertime, old and new forums.

Now I may be wrong as I'm tired from all the hrs planting the fields.
But I'll throw a bone out here, if you can show a thread that states.

"That you must, you are obligated to, or required to crimp a hammer bullet."
Not asking if, but stated so..

For the first person to show this,
I'll buy you a box of hammer bullets of your choice.
Now I don't want to take anything away from Steve's thread, it's good.
Just looking for where it is stated..
Alan
I didn't want to bring it up, because I am still a bit traumatized, but @ButterBean and @joe16 said they would beat me with rubber hoses and take away my birthday if I dared not crimp...:ROFLMAO:

We all have our preferences, processes, thoughts, techniques in which we find works for our individual program of hand loading. I know I probably do a couple things that might not matter, but they sooth my OCD brain! I like to use .002-.003 NT and just lay the case mouth into a valley and hug a PDR band. Adjust till I don't see a gap.
 
I didn't want to bring it up, because I am still a bit traumatized, but @ButterBean and @joe16 said they would beat me with rubber hoses and take away my birthday if I dared not crimp...:ROFLMAO:

We all have our preferences, processes, thoughts, techniques in which we find works for our individual program of hand loading. I know I probably do a couple things that might not matter, but they sooth my OCD brain! I like to use .002-.003 NT and just lay the case mouth into a valley and hug a PDR band. Adjust till I don't see a gap.
I just said you don’t have to crimp, and that’s all I’m gonna say about that, it don’t take a white coat and a slide rule to figure out where I’m going 😉
 
And if you take the time to try different settings ("tune" your final load), I Promise you will see a difference in grouping. You can pick the optimal setting ( thanks ButterBean)!
This is what I have found on all 5 Hammer loads I'm loading. Here is an example of one load.
Bottom target no crimp.
Next up 1/8 turn crimp.
Next up 1/4 turn crimp.
Top target 1/4 turn again after moving poi.
20210926_162054.jpg
 
If you had better results not crimping you are doing something wrong, if used correctly I have never seen the FCD “Hurt” a load
Im open to learn, but can only go by the results I get.
I was crimping but my group was 1.5moa. I played with seating depth testing and because the neck rim no longer landed in a PDR valley I left the crimp off that testing. Now the group is .8moa... and repeatable 2 range sessions now but with no crimping.
 
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